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Forcing Hardy Spring Bulbs
for Indoor Winter Blooms
February 12, 1999
Type of plant : 5 yellow tulips ,comes in bulbs
Question: How to take care of them? I am trying hard to keep them alive!
1, How much water and how often?
2, Do they need big spaces? I am planting 4 in a small pot
and 1 in a cup.
3, Are fertilizers needed? If yes,what kind? How much and
how often?
4, I am trying to separate them into separate cups, but the
roots are very thick and are entangled together, how can I separate them so
that the roots won't get hurt?
Spring flowering bulbs may be potted up to give you an early bloom indoors, however the flowers may also bring with them a bad case of 'spring fever'. Gotta get out in that garden......
Unfortunately, it is to late to pot your bulbs up for winter blooms this year, because the process takes 12 weeks of chilling and root development before the pots are brought into the house and the forcing actually occurs three to four weeks later.. If you really want to have a few potted bulbs in the house, and you can find a little extra space in the refrigerator for the chilling, its not to late.
How to force bulbs
The best containers for forcing bulbs are azalea pots (3/4 tall) or bulb pans, however you can use anything that you'd use for other houseplants as long as it drains well. Since a bulb contains all it needs to bloom the first year, the planting mix doesn't necessarily have to provide any nutrients, but I have found that using a good potting soil makes it much easier to transplant the bulbs to the garden later. The addition of bone meal or bulb food will help the bulbs prepare for an afterlife in the garden. Clean washed sand or gravel may also be used as alternatives, but I don't recommend it.
The pot should be filled to one-half to three-quarters full with potting mix and then moistened. Gently press the bulbs into the soil with the broad base down, and the nose pointed up. They should be arranged as close together as possible without touching each other or the pot. Face the flat side of tulip bulbs toward the outside of the pot. Barely cover the bulbs with additional potting mix and water gently until the soil is thoroughly moistened. Add a little more soil if settling has exposed the bulb.
Now the pot must be placed in a dark, cool area for 12 weeks or longer. The temperature must remain below 48 degrees F. but above freezing (35-40 degrees is recommended). While total darkness is best, if you are chilling the bulbs in the refrigerator, don't worry about the light coming on when you open the door.
Once the roots begin growing out of the drainage holes in the pots or the shoots start to grow (about twelve weeks), give the bulbs a gradual transition to warm. Don't expose them to warm temperatures to soon or the blooms will emerge to fast and will fail before they ever open. Start them out in the coolest spot of your home and gradually move them to warmer areas. This will make the flowers last much longer. Don't expose pale or white foliage to full sun until it has 'greened' up in a few days. Rotate the pots one-quarter turn every few days to keep the foliage and stems upright. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy.
Once the bulbs have finished flowering, remove the spent flowers and stems but continue to
keep watering and providing light for the foliage. The bulbs can be planted outside when the
weather permits just as with any perennial. Do not remove the foliage until it has turned yellow. Unfortunately, forcing takes a lot out of a bulb so it may not bloom again for many seasons. The bulbs should never be forced a second time, always start with "new" bulbs.The bulbs can be separated by gently and slowly pulling them apart.
Bulbs for forcing
- Amaryllis needs no chilling, start in a warm dark place and move to light when the stalk is 4".
- Hyacinths may only need 10 weeks of chilling and begin to flower in as little as a week or so after moving to warmth.
- Tulips and daffodils will take four to five weeks to be in full bloom after chilling.
- Crocuses and grape hyacinths make a great show when planted in masses.
- Freeesias and Calla lilies may also be forced without chilling.
- Paperwhite narcissus takes no chilling.. they'll sprout just about anytime, anywhere.
- The autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) takes no chilling.
- Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majus) will bloom in 3-4 weeks if potted up at 65 degrees
- Dutch iris (Iris reticulata) takes no chilling, should be fed every 2 weeks
- Bluebells (Scilla) take no chilling, and little effort
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