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Gardener's Guide to Starting and Growing Plants from Seeds

November 25,1998 Hi! I am a first time gardener and I bought a packet of PETUNIA (mixed colours ) and VIOLA (princess mix) to plant in my patio and the instructions are not really clear.
I wanted your help to understand when is the best time to start planting these seeds. I live in Hayward,California and have no idea what would "end of frost" would mean in this area.
I also want to plant CILANTRO on my patio but don't know how to go about it . I am in desperate need ..........please....please........please help me!

Growing plants from seeds

Growing plants from seeds is a very self satisfying undertaking. Each different type of seed has different requirements, so it will be impossible to cover everything here, but the basics are the same. For individual requirements check the seed package.

Getting ready

Start your seed growing process by assembling all the materials you will need in your work area. You will need containers with provisions for drainage. This may be CLEAN plastic pots, trays, or peat trays. For the planting medium, I prefer to use a 'soilless' peat planting mix because of its sterility and ease. This can be purchased at any good nursery supply. If you are growing plants which require a constant temperature for germination, you might consider purchasing a waterproof soil heating cable or mat. These are normally factory set to keep your soil at 72 degrees but may also have variable thermostats. Follow the manufacturers directions. If you are growing more than one kind of seeds it is a very good idea to use waterproof labels and keep a log book. Fill your pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the rim. Moisten the soil by placing it in a pan of room temperature water until it is thoroughly wet. It is adviseabe to then redrench the mix with solution of Benomyl fungicide (1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!) to prevent 'damping off' disease. Allow the excess water to drain from the pots/flats, tamp them lightly to pack the medium and you are ready for sowing.

Sowing

It is important now that you make sure that the seeds you plan to sow need any special treatment before sowing. some may need soaking or a few hours (or days) in the freezer, while you might have to scarify (nicking the seed hull) other varieties. The seed packet will provide this information as well as other required information. It is a good idea to do your sowing in stages so that in the event of disaster you have a second chance. Depending on the size of the seed you may have to create a seed 'trench' or punch a row of small holes with a dibble stick. The rows should be at least an inch apart. The planting depth is critical but is usually one or two times the diameter of the seed. Very fine seeds should not be covered at all, nor seeds that require light for germination. Some seeds come in a petteted form because of their size. These should not be covered at all, but merely pressed into the surface of the mix. Carefully distribute your seeds onto the medium or into the small holes, using care to be sure that they are not crowded. This will ensure room for growth as well as good light and air circulation to the seedlings as they develop. It will also make it easier to transplant the new plants when the time has come. Now you should create a miniature greenhouse environment for the pots or flats. This can be done by placing the flat inside a sealed plastic bag (using small stakes to hold the plastic from actually resting on the soil mix), placing a sheet of glass over it, or actually building a mini house with a coat hanger frame and poly film (an old aquariun works very well). Doing this will almost eliminate the ncessity of watering the bed again before the seeds germinate (be sure to keep an eye on it though, DON'T let it completely dry out). Place your flat in an area where it will get good light but not direct sun, and stay as close to the desired temperature as possible. Germination can take anywhere from a few days to a couple of months, depending on what you are growing, so patience will have to be on of your virtues. Once the seeds have poked their little heads up, remove the greenhousing and move the flat gradually into brighter light or sun. Your seedlings will be quite tender and fragile at this time, and a radical change can cause disaster.

Growing

At this stage, the seedlings have underdeveloped root systems, so watering is critical (check daily). The potting medium must remain moist, but never wet or soggy, because this will prevent oxygen to the roots and drown the new plants. Bottom watering is best at this point because spraying can dislodge the plants and water on the leaves may lead to fungus attack. Temperatures should be kept at about 70-75 degrees. Once the first true leaves (the second set to emerge) develop, you can begin to feed your plants. Up until this time the seedlings have been being nourished from the seed itself. Fertilizing should be still done from the bottom at this point, using a very dilute 1/4 strength mix of soluble all purpose plant food once a week. When the plants have reached about 3 inches you can begin to water and feed the plants from above. When the plants have deveoped 4 true leaves, it it time to thin and transplant them into pots. Seedlings growing in a tray should be thinned to one inch or more apart, where they may remain until they are ready to be planted in their permanent home. Water both the plants and the new potting flats or pots well prior to thinning or transplanting. Use the handle of a spoon as your shovel to remove the seedlings from the pot or flat, and very gently separate them, being careful to do as little damage to the roots as possible. Move the plant to the new pot, gently dropping the roots into a pencil size hole which you have ready. (Slightly deeper that the level it was previously growing at). Gently press the medium around the roots. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Always handle a seedling by the leaves and NEVER by the stem. Even slight pressure can permanently damage the stem, whereas the plant will grow another leaf if it is damaged. It is normal for a certain amount of wilting to occur after transplanting, due to some root damage and general plant shock. The plants should recover quickly. keep the plants in good light for several days but not full sun. Gradually increase the light intensity. If the plants begin to get tall and spindly, they are not getting enough light and should be moved to a brighter spot. water when necessary to prevent wilting. The medium should be kept moist but never wet or soggy. Feeding can be done weekly at 1/2 recommended strength.

Ready for the garden?

The final step is hardening off or acclimatizing the plants to the outdoor world. During this process make certain that the plants are kept well watered. Move your trays or pots of plants outdoors to a shaded, sheltered area. When the temperature drops at night, bring them back indoors. After doing this for 2-3 days put them into an area where they will receive a half day of sun (again, bring them in at night if it is expected to get cold), and 2-3 days later let them have full sun (if they are sun lover plants). After this hardening period they are ready to plant into their permanent position in the garden. If SLUGS are a problem in your area, use caution because a slug with an attitude can virtually eliminate all of your work in a matter of hours.

Violas

Violas may be directly sown into the garden at anytime from spring through fall. If they are started indoors they need darkness for germination (cover the flat with black poly). They also need 70 degrees during germination which takes anywhere from 10 to 20 degrees. Placing the flat in a refrigerator for several days prior to germination may give you faster results, but this isn't necessary. Most Violas prefer full sun in the garden.

Petunias

Petunias should be started indoors about 12 weeks prior to the last frost date for your area. The temperature within the medium should be 75 to 80 degrees. DO NOT COVER the seeds because they need light to germinate (10 days) In the garden plant them 12 inches apart, in full sun.

Cilantro

Cilantro grows best in full sun in cool weather. It will tolerate light frosts. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep directly into the garden in early spring, late summer (fall crop)or late fall(will germinate as the ground thaws in spring) where they will germinate in about 10 days. Thin the plants to 4 inches apart.

Last frost date

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