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Transplanting Rhododendrons, Roses
and other Large Plants

November7,1998
I was given some rhodies and roses recently. The only trick is that I have to dig them up out of my mother's garden and transplant into mine. When is the best time of the year to do this? And how deep do I dig up the roots? The roses have been there for 30 or so years and the rhodies about 5. Can you give me some advice?
Rhododendron

Because of the size and age of these plants, you will have to take extra precautions and care when transplanting them. The plants will undoubtedly go through transplant shock, but by following these steps I have had very good luck.
I prefer to move specimen plants in the dead of winter when they are completely dormant. Try to time this so that you have a 2-3 week minimum window of nonfreezing temperatures after the transplant.

    Step by step guide to transplanting....

  1. PREPARATION....
    Dig your new planting hole about 50% larger that your root ball. Mix in peat moss, compost, and possibly a little sand if your soil is heavy. Add a scoop of transplant fertilizer, and create a soil mound in the center of the hole. Fill this hole with water, and let it settle.
  2. THE ROOT BALL
    Water the plant thoroughly. These plants will have extensive root systems. Using a good spade cut a ring completely around the plant at the drip line, pushing the shovel straight down to it's full depth. Dig a 6 inch wide trench around the plant on the outside of this line and then again make your perimeter cut at the drip line so that you now have cut the roots to a depth of two shovels.
  3. HEAVE HO!
    Now is when you find out who your friends are. You will be dealing with a considerable amount of weight, so find as much help as you can..... Insert as many shovels as you have into your drip line cut, spaced evenly around the plant. Apply even pressure to each shovel as you use them in a lever motion. POP!!! Your plant will hopefully snap the remaining roots and lift slightly out of the hole. If you are finding to much resistance, dig your trench deeper and under the rots until the plant pops free when you lever it.
  4. URGHHHHH!
    By lifting areas of the root ball with your shovels, slide a tarp underneath the plant. When the tarp is centered, you will use brute force and strength to move the plant from the hole. (Friends?)
  5. MOVING ON.....
    Carry, drag or tow the plant to the edge of your planting hole, and move it from the tarp to the center of the mound. Turn the plant until you have found the best view of it from where you will most often see it. (Preferably this will have the same north-south exposure it previously had) The plant should be at the same soil level at which it was growing. Loosen the soil of the ball somewhat to free the roots into the new soil.
  6. THE FINAL STEPS
    Fill your hole with water again, and then begin to add fresh rich soil to the hole. (Memories of mud pies?) Continue adding soil until the plant is once again at it's original level. Add a good thick layer of mulch to the top of the soil to insulate and preserve moisture. Take a step back and admire your work!
  7. NOTES
    These are the steps that I would personally follow. The plant will suffer far less shock if you follow all of these steps, but if it is necessary you can alter them according to your needs and abilities. Larger plants may take a full year before they are again showing signs of growth. This is because they are using their energy to rebuild their root system. Be patient and you will be rewarded....

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